The global state of the world– particularly that of the economy– is an interesting topic of conversation, and perhaps even more importantly, an interesting part of life. This is, in part, because of how ambiguous it can be. Who gets to decide how bad things really are?

In technicality, there is no recession- just ask your nearest finance guru. But if you ask someone off the street, you might get a different answer: According to a Bankrate survey in December 2023, nearly three out of five people (59%) expressed feeling that the U.S. economy was in a recession.

It doesn’t take a genius to put together the leading drivers of this thought train- the price of groceries continues to rise exorbitantly, rent in major metropolises is out of reach for many, and the impressive resumes, educations, and skills of people looking for jobs aren’t necessarily enough to be hired. Now add in the unthinkable horrors still happening in Gaza, the ongoing climate crisis, and the lingering PTSD of a pandemic not that far in our rearview mirror, and Billy Joel would have plenty of material for a new, albeit more depressing, rendition of “We Didn’t Start the Fire.”

What, you might be wondering, does this have to do with fashion? Everything, dear reader.

In 2010, research prompted serious discussion about a phenomenon that many have speculated on: the Hemline Index.  According to this theory, in times of economic and social downturn the hemlines of skirts fall too, bringing into vogue ankle skimming styles. When the inverse occurs–the economy and general mood are strong– mini skirts dominate, alongside other more quote-unquote provocative trends like the use of sheer fabrics. 

To clarify, if the Hemline Index were still true, wouldn’t we be seeking something akin to Dior’s New Look, with its long, full skirts?

Somewhere along the way, we must have strayed from whatever cosmic guidance kept us aligned with it. Chalk it up to the freedom of experimentation fashion lovers enjoy more every day, or to the popularity of pursuing personal style- either way, today’s fastest growing trends are far from conservative.

Take, for instance, a month of Fashion Week runways that have been dotted with see-through garments.  This is a visual representation of fashion search engine Tagwalk’s estimation that sheer outfits have increased 40 percent across the twenty biggest brands between 2023 and 2024.

Consider John Galliano’s earth-shattering Margiela show that celebrated the female form; Simone Rocha’s memorable debut at John Paul Gaultier that was marked by Kylie Jenner’s attendance in barely-there couture; and the flowing tops from Chloé, to name a few. 

Comparably, the infiltration of sport in fashion brings with it staying power for the mini skirt, or more specifically, the tennis skirt. The length of this particular style is the key to its relevance with the Hemline Index; it acts as another provocative trend that proves we no longer adhere to historical dressing patterns. All of this, in some part, is thanks to a recent Vogue cover for the American phenom Coco Gauff, and the promotion of Luca Guadagnino’s sport romance starring Zendaya, Challengers.  The film’s press tour, and the success of its carpet looks, are set to only spark the sporty trend further.

Whether you indulge in the baring of skin, or not, there’s something to be said for finding your happy medium on the scale of provocative to conservative and sticking to it. Consider this, all you pessimists: if the world is falling apart, wouldn’t you like for it to happen while wearing something you love?